In the furry of my thoughts, in the previous entry I failed to introduce you to my temporary home so welcome to Rwanda! Kigali is the bustling capitol of Rwanda. As the center of the most densely populated country in Africa, Kigali is hopping! The streets are packed with: goats, cows, monkeys, and bone-thin dogs; men in pinstriped business suits and women in classy business attire both heading to work; children in school uniforms skipping past shoeles children who’s ragged clothing hangs off of their shrunken bodies; army officers swinging loaded guns; lots of garbage (ugh); cars of all makes and in all levels of condition; mutatos(taxi buses and taxi motorcycles-I had my first motorcycle ride last night!); women balancing a plate of bananas on their heads, gallon jugs of water in thier hands, and a crying baby strapped to their back; genocide victims who physical condition has reduced them to begging; citizen work teams digging ditches or repairing the road; youthful boys and girls walking hand in hand while hurrying from school to their volunteer work with any number of grassroots organizations; people, friends and strangers, greeting on another moraho(good day).
Sitting and watching the street activity has given me one of the most poignant summaries of the country, its history, prospects for the future, and of Rwandan living. The city streets weave around lush, green, hilly country side. The cool climate and green beauty has surprised and impressed me almost as much as the beauty of the people.
I don’t always feel welcome though. As I walk down the streets I am greeted by calls of mozungo-white person. The first time I heard this title used I was out for an early morning walk. I hung my shoulders and wanted to pull my black jacket up over my face. I felt targeted, uncomfortable, and like an invader. Accenting physical differences to create separation/segregation is painful. In that moment of personal discomfort I experienced the years of pain and segregation that the Rwandan people have carried. As I turned to find my caller I spotted an elderly man grinning with a toothless smile and waving energetically; my pain was self-imposed. Since then I have been hollered at countless times. Sometimes in a friendly/curious manner and sometimes it is yelled from behind a frown and stern eyes. The white skin of German, French, and Belgium colonialists has played a divisive and essentially evil role in shaping Rwanda. The color of my skin has been stigmatized for a reason; the color of the Rwandans skin has been unjustly stigmatized and it is now their time to rectify the past.
Peace
2 comments:
Katy; I admire your courage in facing such difficult situations and emotions in a country far from home, when most americans are worried about the price of gas or what will be on TV tonight. You are the spice which enlivens the world; keep your light burning brightly inside. Tao te Ching 63: Think of the small as large and the few as many. Confront the difficult while it is still easy; accomplish the great task by a series of small acts. The Master never reaches for the great; thus she achieves greatness. When she runs into a difficulty, she stops and gives herself to it. She doesn't cling to her own comfort; thus problems are no problem for her.
Katy, I am SO GLAD you are blogging as this is an adventure I am anxious to hear more about as it is unveiled to you. It must be quite an introspective time for you, and I particularly love reading about your personal feelings about being tagged as a "white person" in a country where that is not necessarily a postiive attribute in most people's eyes. Gives folks like you and I pause as we think about our family members who encounter that every day of their lives when walking in our world...and it reminds me that often my own perception of what is meant by a comment is not at all what is intended...and that can mean going both positive and negative depending upon the comment and the issuer. Will follow closely, so keep on writing! I love your description of Kigali and would like to hear more about specific people you meet and what they are like. Thanks fo taking us on the journey!!! Much love sent your way from all of us at Hillcrest! Cindy
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